Jaw incision according to Japanese tradition - different techniques and their results

Objective: The branches of the pine should become thicker and longer in the long term. A stronger root system is also desired. Technique: New pine shoots must not be pruned. In addition, sufficient watering and fertilization must always be ensured.

Aim: The pine should retain its size and silhouette as far as possible. Technique: Before the main bud sprouts, all other shoots are removed with the exception of two weaker buds. This leaves only these two low-growth buds at the end of the branch. Once they have grown to a length of around three centimetres, they are broken back by around half. If the tree is already older, it should generally be watered and fertilized less.

Aim: To give the pine tree finer branching and a denser branch pad. Technique: When the needles gradually begin to open, we break back the new candles of the pine by around two thirds.

Aim: To shorten the needles on strong trees and improve bud formation. Technique: Once the new pine needles have reached a length of around three centimetres, they are removed completely. At the end of the branch, buds then form again between the needles in the second phase. Some of these buds will then sprout with the desired shorter needle length. The remaining buds remain on the branch and then sprout the following year. Note: This method must not be used in two consecutive years.

Aim: More buds should form on the pine tree. Technique: When the candles on the pine tree have reached a length of around ten to twelve centimetres, they are completely removed. Numerous new and small buds then form as a result. This method also works on older branches.

Aim: The pine should generally become stronger and sprout numerous buds on young trees. Technique: First of all, the pine needs plenty of water and fertilizer to sprout its candles. Around the beginning of September, most of the candles are removed, leaving only three to four pairs of needles. Small buds will then form over the winter, from which candles with short needles will emerge the following year. This technique can be used approximately every three to four years.

Aim: Strong trees should have small needles and numerous buds. Technique: A complete “needle pruning” is carried out before budding, in which all needles are removed. Around five to six millimetres of the beginning of the needles are left behind to support the formation of new buds. Once the new shoots are fully grown, they are cut back to the desired length. Caution: This method is risky and should therefore only be carried out by experienced bonsai gardeners.

Aim: To give the pine tree more vitality, with minimal growth and denser foliage. Technique: The basis is abundant watering and fertilizing during the entire growth phase. All new shoots are then completely removed in September. As a result, numerous new and small buds will form the following spring.

Aim: Buds should form between the nodes if the branches are too long. Technique: At the point where the buds are desired, the bark below the needles is scored with a sharp knife. All existing buds must also be removed. These small injuries promote the formation of new buds. This technique can be carried out in August.

GENERAL TIPS ON JAW CARE FOR BEGINNERS

If the pine sprouts new candles, these should be cut or broken back to around a third of their length. The ideal time is when the needles begin to open. In addition, only two candles are left at one point, all others are removed. Pines are tip-dominant, which means that the upper branches of the tree have more strength than the lower ones. For this reason, the two weakest candles should always be left behind when pruning the upper branches, and the two strongest candles should always be left behind when pruning the lower branches. We also prune more at the top than at the bottom. In late August to early September, old needles from the previous year should be removed to encourage the second phase of bud formation in September. In general, this time is ideal for shaping the pine tree.