Pine grafting (Japanese: Tsugiki) step by step by Josef Burschl

1. very sharp knife! (Oculating knife)
2. Grafting tape
3. Parafilm*
4. Wound closure paste
5. Bristle brush (small)
6. Scion (Scots pine)
7. Underlay (black pine)

This method can be used for almost all evergreen trees and shrubs, with very good chances of growth; important: the rootstock and scion must be young and vigorous. The method works with all evergreen species such as pine, fir, spruce, juniper, Chamaecyparis etc..

A Scots pine, Japanese black pine, red pine, black pine, Swiss stone pine and mountain pine can be grafted onto a native Scots pine. In extreme cases, Chinese juniper can also be grafted onto a thuja.

One advantage of grafting trees is that it takes many years to grow a tree from seed until it has reached a certain size. This is much quicker with grafting. Two trees of the same species are brought together. As the same variety does not always have to be used for grafting, it is also possible to re-graft. This results in new plants that are more robust and better.
The aim of grafting in bonsai breeding is to make weak or sensitive trees grow stronger, more resistant or better, or to combine the characteristics or strengths of two plants! Grafting a Scots pine onto a black pine makes it more frost-resistant and stronger, and usually results in a stronger needle color.

The scions must come from a mother plant that is as young and healthy as possible. It should have thick buds, be an annual and still be in the dormant phase. If necessary, you can store the scion in a normal refrigerator for a few days.
To do this, carefully wrap the freshly cut shoot tips (scion approx. 5 cm long) in a damp kitchen towel and place the whole thing in a plastic bag. Store at 1-2°C (maximum storage period 1 month). The best chances of success are with fresh shoots.

The optimum time for grafting is the beginning of April (when the tree is budding). If necessary, grafting can also be carried out at the end of August when the tree is dormant.

It may take one and a half to two months before the first signs of growth can be seen on the scion. The grafting tape should remain on the grafting site for at least a year to ensure that the rootstock and scion have grown together well.

Here you can see a freshly cut Scots pine scion. The scion should not be too large, approx. 5 cm is sufficient.

Cut a wedge of 1.5 cm at the lower end of the vine. Then insert the scion straight into the incision in the rootstock. Important: The cambium of the scion must meet the cambium of the rootstock.

Ingrown scion, the protective tape can be removed. The grafting tapes used today become brittle over time and decompose by themselves (not UV-resistant). The scion can grow through the soft parafilm* (plastic bag or cling film must be replaced regularly, however, as the scion cannot grow through it).

The vine has grown in.

With older and thicker rootstocks, the outer rough bark must be removed first. Important: If the bark is thick, the cambium layer must also be cut through (i.e. cut deep enough).

At the large cutting point, insert the scion at an angle (approx. 30° degrees). This gives the scion more chance to bond with the cambium of the rootstock.

After attaching the paddy, seal any remaining holes or cracks with a wound sealing paste to prevent the penetration of foreign bodies or water. This is best done with a small bristle brush.

Here you can see an ingrown vine of the Scots pine on a thick branch of the black pine.

AS YOU CAN SEE, GLADING IS NOT THAT DIFFICULT AND TIME CONSUMING.

However, I recommend practicing this technique on a few cut branches or twigs to gain practical experience and get a feel for handling the knife.

* Parafilm is a stretchy, whitish translucent sealing film made of about 50:50 kerosene wax and polyolefin (polyethylene) to prevent evaporation.